The Birds and the Bees

Ahh, the sweet sounds of summer…birds tweeting, bees buzzing, flowers bursting and all the animals frolicking about as they do. It’s the fine cycle of nature turning us around in a great circle that leads all the way back to the birds and the bees. Yes, it’s that time of year. Love fills the air, and the air fills me with love. I get sudden urges to run barefoot through the flowers and sing songs about how the hills are alive….you get the picture.

Thankfully my surroundings accept me. You see the foothills really do spring to life in Colorado. Seeds that have waited patiently all winter burst out is a great symphony of color in the spring and blanket the slopes with life by summer. And there’s trails everywhere. There’s over 200 parks in Denver and many more in the foothills. Coloradan’s are crazy for the outdoors and there’s enough space where you can happily lose yourself in the fairytale of it all. So, if the spirit of summer should grab you, go ahead and dish those shoes and just run with it. Everyone else is…

The rolling hills of William F Hayden Park in Golden

Butterflies abuzz in the parks

Paul and a field of mustard yellow

On the trail...man, dog and me

Flowers reach seductively for pollination

A field of color

Bagging a 14′er (Mount Evans, CO)

I’ve always loved the mountains. When I was a kid I thought they bought me to the top of the world. I still get that same feeling of awe when I stand atop the peaks. The horizon seems to fall away to infinity, your world is opened and a flood of impressions fall in place like a giant jigsaw puzzle. It’s a most humbling experience and also one of the most freeing ones you can have. Out here there are no boundaries and Mother Earth is bare and open for the touch. 

Colorado has many of these moments especially in the awe-inspiring Rockie Mountains, the stunning range that runs 3,000 miles from Canada to New Mexico. We took one of these today and bagged a 14′er (that would be a 14,000-footer of a peak) in the process. The coolest thing is that you can do it too…in fact anyone can, even your dog. 

Mount Evans is only ~35 miles from Golden and is the highest paved road in the US. Constructed in the 1930′s it rises from 8,700 feet at Idaho Springs to 14,130 feet (4,307 m) at the top parking and it’s a helluva ride. Once you get there, with a bit of panting and sweat you can hike another ~130 or so feet up to a grand total of 14, 264 at the summit. Sure, it’s not as glamorous as cramponing in the Alps, or ice-climbing in the Arctic, but you still get that sense of “ahhh” at the top and the views are truely breathtaking. Should you feel inspired you can then go bag the other 58 or so 14′ers in Colorado…just be prepared to walk a bit for those other ones. 

Driving up to summit and into the clouds

View from the parking lot at Mt Evans

Paul poses at 14,264 feet

The gorgeous Summit Lake at 12,830 feet with Mt Spalding the back

A Marmot eyes us suspicously. They're also called mountain mice.

Walking into Music History (Red Rock Amphitheatre, CO)

There ain’t nothing like good music to rock the soul. And there ain’t nothing like good acoustics to rock some music. The swell part is when you get both at once and the real jackpot is when the earth provides it for you.

Welcome to Red Rock Amphitheatre in Morrison, CO. It’s groovy, hip, snazzy, funky, right on and rad all at once. In fact with ~100 years of music history echoed in the red rock walls of this gorgeous setting, it’s definitely the beat of the place to be.

You see Red Rock is a natural work of art. It’s a natural open-air amphitheatre cradled by massive 300-foot red sandstone walls that provide just enough acoustic vibration to make it a mighty fine concert hall. Add to that a bit of elevation (6,200 feet) and a breathtaking view into the valley and it really becomes quite the unique experience.

It’s hosted all the greats from opera singer Mary Garden in 1911, to the Beatles in 1964 and the U2′s iconic “Under A Blood Red Sky” performance in 1983. During the day it’s open for hikers, exercise maniacs, music fans and tourists. During the night the stage lights come on and the 9,450 seats host films and music venues. It’s fine, it’s hot and it’ll rock your world. Oh, and you can bring doggie, too.
Groovy, baby!

View down the seats to the stage

Side-view of the amphitheatre

View to the sandstone wall on the left

Hiking trails around Red Rock Park

Beer and Outdoor Frolicking (Golden, CO)

There’s something about being in a place that brews a lot of beer that makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside. The thought of all that water flowing down the mountainside feeding itself into happily fermenting vats, or rows of beer bottles clinking merrily on shelves. Ah yes, it gives the place a truly cozy feel. Now, the minor fact that we don’t drink beer (much) doesn’t distract from the outstanding atmosphere which can easily be supported by a few margarita’s and the  company of good friends.

And that was how we found ourselves in Golden, CO.

Located just ~10 miles outside of Denver this cute little town produces more beer per capita than any other city in the US, but boasts so much other play too. Set picturesquely in the foothills of the Rockies, it’s an adult playground with an outdoor feel. You can river-raft Clear Creek in the AM, go for a jaunt at the local Farmers Market and then top it off with a Mocha at the corner coffee shop. Then, in the afternoon you can drive on into Denver for a Rockies game and spice it up with a few pre-game drinks at one of the many local breweries.

Our friends from California, Matt and Tracie joined us for the week-end and we did all that and more. We’ve got another week here so plenty of time to get into trouble and do it all again. I gotta say, I’m starting to love Colorado….

A few margarita's for the atmosphere

Hanging out at a brewery in Denver w/ Matt & Tracie

Paul gets into the swing at Evergreen Golf Course

Modelling wetsuits for our river-rafting trip down Clear Creek

Great seats at Coors Field for the game

A Weighty Matter – RV weights, tire pressure and such

“How much do you weigh” is not thought to be the best way to start a conversation. In fact, with the female populace it could be an outright dangerous proposal. Amongst RV’ers, however, it can be a relaxed and accepted topic of conversation and indeed, a rather important one too. You see, how much you weigh can lead to other exciting topics such as tire pressure or loading options which will not only add years to the lifetime of your home, but can improve gas mileage and “save your butt” on the downhills. An overloaded RV can even void an insurance claim, so that’s all the more reason to know your numbers. So, how does one actually do this with a behemoth such as ours?

Well, the easiest way to weigh something is to place it on a scale. As it turns out that’s exactly what you do with an RV. You just need really, really big scales and a wide area to drive the monster onto. In to save the day come the truckers. These folks have been weighing for years, and their scales are actually open to anyone. Many of the major truck-stops such as Flying J’s or Pilots will have them (or you can look up your nearest CAT scale location here) and most of them will weigh front and rear axles independently. So, just mosey on in between the truckers, squeeze your rear wheels onto the scale and ask to be weighed. $9 and 5 minutes later you’ll have your poundage in all it’s glory.

As it turns out we weigh 11,820 lbs on our front axle and 20,400 lbs on our rear axle and that’s with 3/4 tank full of fresh water and LP and a full load of gas….almost fully-loaded so to speak. A quick reference to the RV manual lets us know we need to keep 105 psi  of pressure in in our two front tires and 92 psi in each of our 4 rear tires for optimal performance. So, that’s how we keep our butts in shape, RV-speaking.

Our svelte 32,220 lb monster in all her glory

Our weight certificate from the CAT scales in Quartzite, AZ

RV Park Rating – Glenwood Canyon RV Resort (No Name, CO)

This was the RV site we stayed at close to Glenwood Springs. Unfortunately I think we were duped by a pretty website. You’ll see below… 

Link to Park here: Glenwood Canyon RV Resort 

1. Site quality = 1/5
   We were very disappointed with the site quality here, especially considering this is a pricier RV park. The sites were small, unkept,without shade and rocky. 50 Amp hook-up and water, but sewer was oddly located at the very front of the site forcing several RV’ers to stick out or move forward to dump unless they had extensions. Each site was separated by a rocky slice with a bench which was uncomfortable and not really usable as sitting space. Most sites did not have space for a car either, so people parked in front of their RV’s. There are small, shaded sites down by the Colorado river, but these are not accessible by big-rigs and are mostly for tent-campers only.
2. Facilities = 2/5
   Once again a disappointment here. The main RV showers/bathrooms were basic concrete and not well-kept (bugs in the lights and mould on several of the shower curtains). Water pressure was also poor. There is a newer bathroom up the hill (for the cabins), but not really useful for the RV sites.
3. Amenities = 2/5
   Once again, a poor selection of amenities especially considering the park price. No pool and no cable. Laundry, albeit an expensive one. The main positive was free WiFi. There is a zip-line, but it costs $32 to ride it across the Colorado. There is also a river-rafting group (Rock Gardens) on-site.
4. Location = 4/5
   Location is really the one and only attraction of this park. It’s located right in the middle of Glenwood Canyon and alongside the Colorado river, so an absolutely gorgeous spot. There’s access to hiking trails directly from the park including the 16-mile Glenwood Canyon Recreation trail. It’s also only a few miles away from Glenwood Springs.
5. Pet friendliness = 4/5
   They do accept pets and do not have breed restrictions, plus they do offer poo-bags on-site. Easy access to hiking trails for doggie.

 Overall rating = 2.6 

Summary: Well, this was a case of duped by the website for us, I think and we booked it before we discovered National Forests and other such gems. This is a pricy RV park ($50/night) and we expected quite the fancy get-up, but were sorely disappointed by the site quality, amenities and facilities. It’s not a bad park, but just way overpriced for what they offer.  The main thing this place has going for it is location, and I guess the Colorado River-side spot allows them to charge the big bucks and still get visitors. We weren’t the only ones duped, however, and talked to several other RV’ers who were disappointed on arrival. In the end we ended up loving the surrounding area despite the park, so the experience worked out, but I wouldn’t stay here again. 

Basic RV site with rocky slice on the side

Open view of area where the big-rigs are parked

View of RV sites across from ours. Most people parked their cars in front.

Cabins in upper location of park

Lower sites by the Colorado river. These are mostly tent-sites and would be too small for big-rigs.

The Gem Nextdoor – Maroon Bells, CO

“Heaven is under our feet as well as over our heads” (Henry David Thoreau)

You can buy your way into many things in life, but the real gems you gotta hunt for. If you’re the adventurous type you’ll find many of these hidden treasures in your lifetime. If you’re lucky every once in a while you’ll hit the jackpot and find something so outstanding, so special that you’ll want to wrap it up and keep it forever. 

Of course, Paul was one of those finds (can I hear a collective “awwwww”?), but we managed to snag another one a few days back just outside of Aspen. We’d come to this posh town mostly for a look-see and after a 3-minute drive through the main drag we’d accomplished that task completely. With time to spare and an adventurous spirit we decided to explore a little side-valley ~1 mile out of town that we’d seen on the way in.  Well, as it turns out, the side-trip was the cherry on the pudding and one of those keeper finds that etch themselves in your memory forever.

Maroon Bells is ~183,000 acre preserve in the Elk Mountains ~10 miles up Maroon Creek Road off Hwy 82. As you drive up the alpine road it reveals itself to you suddenly and with astonishment, like a colorful flower bursting open from a dull pod. Sharp, show-white peaks tower majestically above a crystal-clear lake enclosed by crimson cliffs and active streams. It’s a jaw-dropping place and totally unique to the area. Crafted by glacial movement and tinted by hematite (iron-bearing mineral), it’s the result of 34 million years of creation. Given it’s splendor it’s popular with the locals, but like all parks you’ll only need to walk ~1 mile down any trail to get away from the crowds. Six of the spectacular peaks crest over 14,000 feet, and with over 100 miles of trails several going over 12,000-foot passes you’ll have no issue losing yourself in the wild. 

So, next time you find yourself in Gucci-Aspen, skip the pearls and go explore the bargain-gem next door. 

The spectacular Maroon Bells

On the trail and in the wilderness just a few miles from Maroon Lake

View across Maroon Lake

Whisky and Gunfights – the story of Doc Holiday

‘Although he sometimes drank three quarts of whiskey a day, he was the most skillful gambler, and the nerviest, fastest, deadliest man with a six-gun I ever saw.’ Wyatt Earp describing Doc Holiday in a 1896 article

There’s something about old Western Tales that draw you in. It’s the allure of the Wild West, the stories of frontiersmen, gunslingers, gamblers and pioneers. Like the fish that got away, the stories get bigger in the re-telling and that only makes them all the more interesting.

Doc Holiday is one of those great tales. He was either one of the deadliest gunmen that ever lived, or a drunken gambler with a fiery temper that got involved in all the wrong fights. Either way he lived a fascinating life that was both short, wild and infamous. A dentist by trade, he was best known for the historic gunfight at OK Corral in 1881 where, according to legend, 30 shots were fired in 30 seconds. Doc survived and he continued to gamble and drink his way across the West while roping up a romantic involvement with the tough and hot-headed “Big Nose Kate“.

At the end of his life he sought the healing waters of Glenwood Springs in a final attempt to save his body from the ravages of consumption (tuberculosis). Alas, it was too late and he died and a few months later, after a final shot of whisky, at the ripe age of 36. They buried him somewhere on the hill in Linwood Cemetery above town. In keeping with the mystery of it all, no-one knows exactly where his body is buried but you can take the 1/2 mile hike up to the graveyard, see his marker and immerse yourself in the wild, crazy history of it all.

Doc Holiday's Marker in Linwood Cemetary...he's not buried here, but could be somewhere closeby

Potters Field...the poor section of Linwood

View of Glenwood Springs from the trail up Jasper Mountain to the cemetary

Mountain Air, Gunslingers and…weed? (Glenwood Springs, CO)

We had a lot of expectations coming into Glenwood Springs. It’s the final resting home of notorious gunslinger Doc Holiday, is located just south of upper-class Aspen and is set in a winding canyon right alongside the Colorado river. All this we knew and were prepared for. When we arrived the glorious cliffs did not disappoint, the Colorado was roaring in all it’s glory and the glossy local magazines reflected there’s money in the place.

What we did not expect was the weed.

Slipped in amongst the historic 1893 Colorado Hotel (a favourite of President Roosevelt in his time) and centuries-old vapour caves used by the Ute Indians (now a posh spa) are over 100 dispensaries of local ganja, freely advertizing up to 50+ different strains of medicinal weed. It’s an odd mix and we can’t quite get a grip for how it happened, but I guess these parts have always attracted the eccentric.

Glenwood Springs also surprises in other ways. Despite a mere ~8,000 population it’s got the feel of a big city in a small town. There’s an active theatre scene, plenty of downtown restaurants and a local brewery. Add to that endless options of outdoor activities including hiking, river rafting, rock-climbing, biking and riding…and that’s just the summer roster. It’s a fine melange and the first place we’ve come across outside of CA where we could envision settling down. But then again, we’re a bit odd too….

Biking along the 16-mile Glenwood Canyon Recreational Trail

Late afternoon light on the mountains in Glenwood Canyon

Dandelion in morning light

Polly and Paul on the trail

"green" medicine in downtown Glenwood Springs

RV Park Rating – KOA Grand Junction (Grand Junction, CO)

This was a quick 2-day stop-over for us as we entered Colorado from Utah before heading into the mountains.

Link to Park here: KOA Grand Junction

1. Site quality = 4/5
   Very decent site quality here. Grassy area at each location plus bench and fire-pit. The sites themselves are gravel and some (but not all) have shade. There’s 50 AMP hookups, good water pressure and free cable too. Only negative is that you’re fairly close to your neighbour.
2. Facilities = 4/5
   Bathrooms are neat and clean but nothing overly fancy. Good showers with nice pressure.
3. Amenities = 4/5
   Decent selection of amenities here. Pool (albeit a small one), laundry, free WiFi, playground for the kids plus cart rentals. There’s also cabin rentals for those without an RV.
4. Location = 3/5
   The KOA is located a few miles outside of Grand Junction in a suburban area. There’s shopping in town and access to several nature areas around Grand Junction, but not too much at the KOA itself.
5. Pet friendliness = 3/5
   They accept pets here, but have breed restrictions (no Pit Bulls, Rotties or Dobermans) so they get a ding for that. They do have a long, narrow fenced-in dog-run and access to a walking trail (The Old Spanish Trail) ~5 blocks away. They also offer poo-bags on site.

 Overall rating = 3.6

Summary: KOA’s are usually pretty consistent and this one was no exception. We wanted a reliable stop-over in Grand Junction and that’s exactly what I’d say this is. The sites are nice, the landscaping decent and the campground is clean and well-run with all the amenities you’d expect. It’s a city stop-over in a suburban area, so I wouldn’t stay here for the views or the nature access, but it’s a decent stopping site to explore the area or do some shopping. For nature-lovers I’d recommend heading to one of the 5 campsite sections of the James M. Robb Colorado River Park. That’s probably where we’ll stay next time we stop through.

View along sites. The KOA also offers small cabins (on right)

Typical site arrangement. Gravel with grassy space, bench and firepit

The pool and cart rentals

The fenced-off dog run in the back