Theatre, Hiking & The Most Perfect RV Spot Ever – Ashland, OR

“Oh, this is simply perfect!” I gushed, for probably the 200th time
“Indeed it is” repeated Paul, still fresh and awestruck by the view

The RV reflects some late afternoon rays

We’ve landed in the Most Perfect RV Spot Ever (MPRSE). I say that with capital letters so you’ll understand how very cool this is. Just take everything you’ve ever wanted in a site, compile it into one and that’s where we are….let’s see…hmmmmm

Sunset at Emigrant Lake

• Water views. No, no, no let’s not think small here…make that water views out of EVERY single window…CHECK
• Get rid of any RVs in our view-path…CHECK
• Put in our own little swim beach. Why not…CHECK
• Add in a few mountains for scenic depth. Sure…CHECK
• Oh don’t forget the Giant Oak Tree for shade. Indeed…CHECK
• Stage it all with a fine 70 degrees and a gentle breeze. Naturally….CHECK
• And geeze, while we’re at it let’s put a chocolate factory and golf course next door Pourquoi Pas?…CHECK 

Panoramic shot of our RV view…not too shabby

We’re at Emigrant Lake County Park right outside Ashland OR and somehow we’ve hit the RV parking jackpot and landed the MPRSE of the century. Our RV is sitting on its own little peninsula completely surrounded by water and hills. We’ve got an ocean of space in front of us and no-one else in view. The cats are sunning themselves in the grass and Polly has just gone for her 4th swim of the day. This is literally the nicest site we’ve ever stayed at in a public park, and the surrounding area only makes it that much better. Welcome to Oregon, folks…we’re already lovin’ it!

Hiking dense and solitary forest at Mt.Ashland

I found out about Ashland from a friend last year who told me about the Oregon Shakespeare Festival (OSF). Originally launched in 1935, it’s an annual event that’s become one of the largest theatrical attractions in the US.  In fact OSF sells tickets to more performances of more plays than any other theater in the country. Every year Ashland hosts 11 plays (both Shakespearean and others) on 3 stages including an authentically constructed outdoor Elizabethan Stage. Add to the mix that Ashland is surrounded by gorgeous rolling hills, sports the Dagoba Chocolate retail outlet, has many miles of biking trails, is super dog-friendly and still maintains a cute, downtown feel. Oh, this is totally my kinda place!

We targeted this spot as a stop on our way to Eugene for some hiking and theatre-going. Had we known it was going to be this nice we would have booked out the full 2 weeks, but as it is we’ve got a good reason to come back.

Picture perfect views of Mt.Shasta from the meadows trail

For our hike we drove up nearby Mt.Ashland to the snow-level and a very scenic portion of the Pacific Crest Trail. Known locally as the Mt.Ashland Meadows trail(*) this gorgeous 6-mile out-and-back hike follows a ridge-line amongst dense pine and out to sweeping open views of the valley. In summer it’s plastered in wildflowers and on a clear day you can see all the way to Mt.Shasta. This early in the season the trail is still asleep with small drifts of snow and mountain air so crisp and fresh it almost hurts to breathe. Total solitude, space and serenity. As John Muir so aptly put it “the mountains are calling and I must go”.

The zany and musical Animal Crackers

For our show we chose to forgo Shakespeare (I’m saving that one for when the outdoor theatre opens in July) and opted for a Marx Brother’s Vaudeville-style slap-stick comedy “Animal Crackers”. It was full of color, music and great silly humor with spot-on timing…just the kind of play I would have loved to put on in my theatre days. A thoroughly entertaining show that left me wanting to see more.

Even the cats love it here. Taggart relaxes on our outdoor lounger.

There is plenty of other stuff to do here, so much so that we’ve decided we’ve definitely gotta come back, that is if you folks don’t book the MPRSE(**) before us. In the meantime we’re just going to hang right here in our own little paradise with our feet pointed to the blue and eyes feasting on the view. Oh and in case I didn’t mention it, our spot is simply perfect….

(*) To get to Mt.Ashland Meadows take exit 6 from I-5, head south along the frontage road for ~0.7 miles and turn right onto Mt. Ashland Road (towards the Mt.Ashland Ski Area). Drive 7 miles on this road and then park at the first pull-out (mile 7.2). You’ll see signs for the Pacific Crest Trail on either side of the road. Once parked cross the road and take the trail from opposite the pull-out. Enjoy!

(**) Did I not say which site we’re in? Oh, I didn’t did I. Well, you’ll just have to wait in tense anticipation. After all, they say that’s half the fun of surprises…

Our own little swim-beach by the RV

Polly goes for her 4th dip of the day

NFS Campground Review – Antlers, Shasta Lake, CA

View of Shasta Lake from Antlers Campground near the boat ramp

A well-forested and convenient base (right off I-5) to explore Shasta Lake in N.Central CA. Mainly a boaters campground however.

Link to campground here: Antlers Campgrounds, CA
Link to map location here: Antlers Campgrounds, CA

1. Site Quality = 4/5
   Very nice sites here. Most are heavily forested, with long, paved parking pad and large “sitting areas” containing picnic table, bear-proof food container and fire-pit. Generally very good separation between campers and lots of options for bigger rigs. Selection of back-in sites both single and very spacious double-size (could easily fit full-size RV & boat), plus a few exceptional lake-side sites with views from the back (#14, #18 are prime!). Only dings are that there is ONE tight tree-bordered turn at the beginning of the campground (not really do-able for anything bigger than 40-foot rig), and some of the sites, especially those bordering Antlers Rd (#34 through #42 outer-facing sites) are too uneven for larger rigs. You can see pics of each and every site on campsitephoto.com. NO hookups.
2. Facilities = 2/5
   Selection of flush toilets and pit toilets around the campground, but unfortunately they were not really clean while we were there. Boat ramp right next-door. NO dump station or showers.
3. Location = 3.5/5
   There’s good and bad things about the location here. On positive side you are right off I-5 and right next to Shasta Lake in a prime spot to explore the whole area. The negative is that you’re right off I-5 (there is some freeway noise in the campground) and also close to the railroad tracks (you’ll hear the roll of train coming through every now and then). Also, although you’re right by the lake the campground is on a bluff so there is no actual lake access except for boaters (at next-door boat ramp). No hiking either. However it’s an excellent base to explore the whole Shasta area.
4. Pet Friendliness = 4/5
   Another good spot for pooch with lots of space in camp. No dedicated hiking, but there is “hidden” run-around area in the back of the campground from a small trail between sites #33 & 34. Only ding is no lake access at camp. You’ll need to drive around the shoreline towards Gregory Beach or Beehive Beach get to the beach & water with pooch.

Overall Rating = 3.4

Summary: We were looking for a “beast-size” friendly campground to explore the Lake Shasta area and this place fit the bill. The campground is conveniently located right off I-5 and next to a popular boat-ramp. It is heavily forested and has nice paved sites with large “sitting areas”, lots of privacy and generally really good camper separation. Many sites are large enough for our size plus there are ”double” sites that could easily fit a RV, boat & toad, and even a few really prime sites that have lake-views out the back (#14, 15, 18). The only dings are the noise and access to water. This is mainly a boaters campground and gets crowded on the week-ends. Also despite being right next to the lake it is on a bluff and so there is no actual lake/beach access for non-boaters. Lastly you do hear some noise from I-5 and the train tracks. Neither bothered us, but it does detract from that “remote” forest feeling. If we come back and we can book one of the big prime sites (#14, #18) we’ll stay here again, but otherwise we’ll likely head to one of the other campgrounds we scouted out in the area (see below).

Extra Info: Average 3G on Verizon (2 bars). Total 59 sites (all non-hook-up), 45 of which are reservable on recreation.gov. Drinking water spigots on-site, but NO dump station. Sites cost $18 for singles, $30 for doubles. Senior Pass gives 50% off.

Extra, Extra Info – Other “Beast-Size” NFS Options: There are at least 2 other forest service campgrounds that accept “beast-size” around Lake Shasta.
1/ Hirz Bay NFS - It’s a windy 10-mile drive to get there, but road is very good, easy 2-lane and the campground has many larger-size (and very pretty) sites. Very relaxed & remote spot with nice hiking trail too. See photos on campsitephotos.com. Link to reservations HERE.
2/ Sims Flats NFS – Small and secluded campground half-way between Lake Shasta and Mt.Shasta ~1 mile off the I-5. Only 19 sites, all first-come-first-serve, but many are large enough for 40-footers. Very pretty & relaxed. This would be our #1 choice coming back to the area. Link to campground HERE.

Extra, Extra, Extra Info – BOONDOCKING: Lake Shasta actually allows camping anywhere on the shoreline if you’re able to get your equipment there. Most spots are best suited to tenters or small campers, but there are a few “dedicated” dispersed areas which cost $8/night and can accept bigger sizes. In our scouts, Gregory Beach seemed the best choice for “beast-size”.

NOTE/ You can see pics of each and every Antlers site on campsitephoto.com.

Typical back-in site (#32 shown)

View of massive double-site (#13 shown). Easily space for RV & boat in here side-by-side.

Typical “sitting area” with picnic table, fire-pit and bear-proof food container. This was taken from “prime” site #14 where you can walk to a full water-view out the back.

Front-view of our site (#12)

Back view of our site showing spacious “sitting area”

View down campground loop showing great separation between sites. #20 on right, #21 on back left.

Another view down loop. #26 on left.

Another view down back-side of campground. #39 on left (this site rather uneven)

View of facilities

Unofficial “run-area” out the back of the campground (accessible between sites #33 & 34)

Grooving The Spirit Of Úytaahkoo – Mt.Shasta, CA

“When I caught sight of it….I was fifty miles away and afoot, alone and weary. Yet all my blood turned to wine, and I have not been weary since”
John Muir, on seeing Mt.Shasta

Mt.Shasta offers a peek on a cloudy day

Where heaven and earth meet…Mt Shasta city

Groovy…is the first thing that comes to mind. Having an out-of-body experience is not far behind it. We’re sitting at the “Seed of Life” cafe, surrounded by psychedelic posters and aging hippies. I’m reading an advertisement for “priestess training” and have just learned from the long-haired (and well-tattooed) barista that Mt. Shasta is a natural energy vortex. “you’re in the heart of the sacred mountain spirit, man….people have vision quests to come here”. The only thing nagging at my inner sanctuary is that my mocha cost $4.95 and the old hippy by the door is wearing a $100 Patagonia sweatshirt, was typing on an iPad and just got into a Land Rover. Maybe I am having visions?

At “Seed Of Life” Cafe in downtown Mt.Shasta

Despite all the fluff, you can’t help but be impressed by the view. Mt. Shasta takes your breath away, and energy vortex or not, it’s comes darn close to a real-life modern-day spiritual encounter. Úytaahkoo or “White Mountain” sprouts like a giant conical birthday surprise out of the plains and into a soaring 14,179 feet (4,322 m). Driving north up the pine-lined I-5 amongst gently rolling hills you simply don’t expect it, so when you turn the corner and suddenly face the massive snow-capped peak, it really does shift your inner senses. There’s something about this mountain, and it most definitely draws you in.

Paul poses at Mt.Shasta Golf Resort with the famous peak in the background

Mt. Shasta (the town) is a cute mountain town which cultivates the spiritual vibe, but also rocks some money. There are large mansions just outside of town and the local golf course is a pristine 18-hole dream (we actually stopped to hit a few balls on the range…yes, even me…after hours of Golf Channel and hubby persistence I have veeery skeptically applied myself and realized I can actually hit the ball. The full glory of my golf future is yet to be seen however). Downtown has shops, cafes, a good organic food market and no end of offerings to get in touch with your inner self.

Paul meditates on the vortex’s of life at Castle Lake

But the real draw to all this is the mountain…and the surrounding nature. Much of the mountain is protected Wilderness (which sadly means no dogs), but you can drive to admire the summit base-camp with pooch (Sand Flat/Bunny Flat) and you can go hike with doggie just about anywhere outside the main peak. We chose a super-scenic 2.2 mile route from Castle Lake to Heart Lake which not only offers two gorgeous mountain lakes, but also stunning views of Mt.Shasta and rolling blankets of low-lying snow (at least this time of year).

Polly catches a breath between snow “crazy runs”

The latter drives Polly absolutely bananas giving her the snow “crazy runs” and us the benefit of a very tired doggie after the hike. Oh, and I have it on good authority from a local shaman that this happens to be an old indian hike which is (of course) a spiritual cleanser. So not only do your outer limbs get a work-out, but your inner being does too.

It’s simply the way of the mountain out here. I can’t tell you if the vortex took me in or my blood turned to wine, but I most definitely felt lifted. Groovy, baby.

Gorgeous views from Heart Lake

Mountain flowers at ~6,500 feet

Hanging By Red Shores & Mountains – Shasta Lake, CA

Our new back yard is pretty darn sweet

I have to admit our new back-yard is pretty sweet. Not only are we surrounded by a great lake, pretty trees and lush green mountains, but we are (yet again) the largest rig in the campground. Don’t know why that last bit always gets me excited, but I love getting out where other Class A’s have not yet dared to venture. Exploring new horizons “beastly” style, if you will, or modern-day Christopher Columbus’s a-la-RV, or nouveau big-rig road-crusaders…

Ahh, but I digress…

Summer color on the trails

We have landed in Shasta, land of lake, mountain & those who seek the other side. One of the first things you notice when you get up here is that Shasta means a whole lotta different places. Mt. Shasta is the large, pointy (and usually snowed-in) mountany thing in the north, which should not be confused with Shasta Lake (the rather enormous wet lakey thing ~40 miles south), and should most definitely not be mistaken for Shasta (the city ~50 miles to the East). Thankfully Mt Shasta (the city) is actually next to the mountain, and Shasta Lake (the city) is next to the lake, leaving only Shasta as the odd one out. Got it?

Driving the bridge into Shasta Lake

But to keep things simple I’ll start with Shasta Lake (the actual lake, not the city), which is where we’re currently parked and which is indeed a very large lake. Visually it’s a stunning picture -> rugged iron-rich red earth shoreline set off by mountainside, conifer trees and aqua-blue waters. In fact it’s a man-made lake that came into being in 1948 after building the Shasta Dam, the second largest and (still) the tallest concrete dam in the United States. Standing proud at a surface area of 30,000 acres (12,000 ha) and boasting 365 miles of shoreline when full the 5 ”arms” of the lake spread into long fingers that make it look on a map like a massive creepy monster-hand. It also means there are a whole lotta hidden nooks and crannies to explore, many of which can only be reached by boat.

Hiking the coastal forest by Packers Bay

We got here on the camping madness that is Memorial Day week-end and boating is definitely the big deal. Almost everyone comes here with a boat in haul (even the RVs!), and house-boats are a popular way to spend the week-end on  the lake. Considering it’s size there is actually not that much development outside of boating. There are a few 2-lane roads that snake some of the boundaries of the lake (but not all), a selection of forest service campgrounds, a handful of RV parks (most too tight for our liking) and only a very few hiking trails. 

But despite the holiday week-end madness and minimal development (and in our case no boat) you can still find plenty of stuff to do.

Eerie moss on shoreline trees

Visiting the Dam is an excellent outing, as well as a trip to the Shasta Caverns, and for roadie-lovers there’s the massive Chappie-Shasta OHV area in the south. But for the less touristy folks (like ourselves) you can take a trip to the more remote Samwell Cave, or do a bit of hiking on the trails, all of which are lightly used and pooch-friendly (our fav hike is Waters Gulch Trail down by Packers Bay). And if you really want to get out there and into the wild, try and seek out the rare Shasta Salamander…no, I kid you not.

Rigs boondocking at Gregory Beach. This is “beast” friendly…just about…

But the most fun is simply exploring the coast which is an excellent choice for water-loving pooch-owners like ourselves. Lake Shasta is one of the few lakes in CA that allows camping & recreation anywhere on the shore, so if you can get your gear there, you can set-up shop and spend the week. Most of the spots are for tenters, but there are a few dedicated, larger dispersed camping areas and Gregory Beach (as we’ve discovered) is one spot you could actually bring “the beast”. The rest of the shore is open for hanging out, pooch swimming and fishing.

We’ve had a coupla great days exploring the shoreline in near-perfect temps and hanging at our rather sweet forest site. Oh and in case you noticed the hint in the second paragraph, we DID foray to the other side. But that, my dears, is a story for another day…..

View of the lake from Waters Gulch Trail

Oh yeah, it’s pooch-loving gorgeous out here all right

The Travel Map Is Back

Just a quickie blog post today to let you know our 2012 travel map is back up and running! I keep it pretty much on-track (depending on internet signal) so you’ll always be able to see where we’ve been as well as which posts I wrote in each location. Easiest access is from our “journey” page where I keep all our travels on one page.

2012 Journey

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