So Long Lone Star

“No matter where I might wander, there’s a memory I’ll never lose
The Lone Star shines bright, in my heart tonight
I’ve got the Bluebonnet blues.”
Ledoux Chris: Bluebonnet Blues Lyrics

Gorgeous and secluded Sea Rim

Well, we’re wrapping up our adventure in Texas and looking back on the 6 wonderful weeks we’ve spent there. There’s no doubt it was an adventure, no question our journey was cut short and so very certain that we’ve only just touched the surface of what this place offers.

Texas is huge, so very large in fact that it encompasses almost every US ecosystem from marsh-land in the SE (yes, even alligators folks), to sand-swept coasts in the South, forests in the North, canyons in the NW and high desert in the West. At 268,820 square miles (696,200 km²) it’s the second largest State in the US, but it’s really a whole self-contained country. The State that’s seen six flags, is now the only state that can boast a single star and maintains a sense of independence and uniqueness that comes through everywhere you go.

Morning still in Sam Houston Forest

And we love that spirit! We managed to enjoy the solitude of sand and sea at our gorgeous boondocking site in Sea Rim, spent a rare few days absorbing the beauty of the forest, feasted ourselves silly in Austin, and were blown away by the dramatic and stark beauty of the Western Mountains. And yet, there’s so much we haven’t seen. We didn’t make the Southern Coast at Padre Island, we weren’t able to see  the remote beauty of Big Bend, and we haven’t even touched Paolo Duro Canyon in the NW. Obviously we’ve got to come back.

The Sublime Davis Mountains

And of course the fires were something else. What started as an evacuation for us on Saturday afternoon has continued to be a fight for the local fire-crews in the Davis Mountains. As of today the fires are, thankfully, mostly contained but there are still areas burning and conditions remain dangerous (see news HERE and HERE). The experience has given us much food for thought about how to prepare better for emergencies, and we’ve gotten lots of useful and important tips from comments on the blog which we’ll be implementing.

The pretty Bluebonnet, Texas State flower

So, sadly we come to the point where we say so long Lone Star.

You’ve given us a wild ride, a fabulous adventure and some amazing memories. You’ll remain close to our hearts, and one day that cowboy song may bring us back to you again.

Updates & Thoughts on the Fort Davis Fire

“We’ve had fires, but this is the first one where we’ve lost so many structures,” George Grubb, Judge for Fort Davis

Last shot from side-window of the RV as we were leaving the campground on Sat

We’re 200 or so miles North of Fort Davis today, but still very much occupied by thinking about everything that’s happened (and still happening) back in the Davis Mountains. We’ve been overwhelmed and humbled by the outpouring of comments and well-wishes on the blog, and feel more thankful than ever that we were home and able to get out as easily as we did. I have to give credit to the rangers and local authorities who did an excellent job getting everyone organized and evacuated in time (according to news reports no-one has been injured in the fire).

View from the top of the trail near the State Park Campground. This very hill was apparently on fire as the last RVer left.

Unfortunately, things are not done yet. I’ve been anxiously following reports of the fire and blaze as it’s been moving across the mountains. The ultra-low humidity and high winds have apparently sparked over 19 fires across SW Texas, many of which are still burning today (see this morning’s news reports HERE and HERE). The Fort Davis fire (also being called the ”Rock House” fire, the site from which it originated) has burned upwards of 80,000 acres, but is finally coming under some level of control (as of 11AM today it was reported 40% contained HERE). According to the news reports flames entered the State Park, which matches what we heard from the last RVers leaving the campground. but did not burn any structures there, so the Park at least has avoided major damage. Overall, however, it’s been a devastating few days for the locals and heavy work for the fire crews. My deepest thoughts go out to all of them.

Polly takes in the view at the Davis Mountains. We worry about our pets in an emergency

The whole experience has also brought up both a lot of questions and thoughts about emergency safety. I have to admit we’re still rather in shock over the whole thing and especially at how *quickly* it happened. There was only ~1 hour between “get ready” and “get out”, and I can’t help thinking what would have happened if we weren’t there or aware of what was going on. Several comments on the blog and forums yesterday have made me think about things we might do differently in the future and I felt it was worth sharing those ideas here.

1/ Having the RV Emergency Ready - We helped a couple at the parking lot in Kent who had made it out of the campground on fumes. They were almost empty on gas and hadn’t thought to fill up since it was only 3 miles to town. This got us thinking about gas, water and other emergency equipment. Being an RV we’re self-contained and ready to survive just about anywhere, but we do need to have the basics ready. We rarely let our gas tank go below 1/2 (~50 gallons = ~350-500 miles of driving), and I think this is a good precaution. We also always keep at least 1/3 tank of fresh water in our tank (~33 gallons). We do also have an emergency medical kit (for both ourselves and our pets) as well as food and tools. I think all of these items are critical.

2/ Moving the RV in an Emergency Situation - We typically take ~40 mins or so to get the RV moving when we leave a spot. A lot of what we do wouldn’t be necessary in an emergency and we’ve talked about how to cut that time down. If needed we can leave behind campground equipment, pile inside items on the bed (eliminating the need to put them away), and leave the car unhooked. If pressed, I believe we could get going in 10 minutes, just enough time to secure the animals, pull in the slides, raise the jacks and leave. It’s worth having this plan ready.

We need to get an Emergency Alert Radio

3/ Remaining Aware of Emergencies  - We realized yesterday that we really have no adequate warning system in the RV for emergency situations. If we’re boondocking, or away for the day we simply wouldn’t know. The National Weather Service (NWS) prepares and produces Weather Radio broadcasts, including emergency alerts and you can buy receivers that access and warn about public alerts. This is something we need. Read more HERE.

4/ Emergency Pet Preparedness – What would we do if our pets were in the RV in an emergency and we were not there? I’m not clear that I have a firm, comforting answer for this. Some people put pet and contact information on the rig (e.g. on the front door), so they can be contacted in an emergency. I think this is a good suggestion and could be enough in some cases. Others leave the rig door open for access with a “save the pets” sign. I’m conflicted on this idea since I think it leaves the rig too exposed for crime, but I can understand why some do it. Others will leave details with the front office with instructions for how to smash the windows and get in. This idea has merit too.

You can never prepared for all emergencies, but these past few days have certainly made us think about how to be ready in a better way. If you have more ideas feel free to share them in the comments. In the meantime I’ll leave you with a few more pictures of the gorgeous Davis Mountains and hope you’ll share me in sending thoughts to the people and fire-crews in SW Texas still battling the fires over there.

Golden hills and sky

Sweeping views

 

The spectacular Davis Mountains

Evacuated by Fire in Fort Davis, TX!

“I’ve seen a lot of fire spread out in this country, and I’ve never seen anything like this” Gary Mitschke, Presidio County Emergency Services Coordinator

Shot at ~6PM last night with black clouds hovering over the campground

This was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced before. We were just hanging out in the campground at Davis Mountains State Park having spent a lazy day walking the hills and visiting town for some shopping. At ~4PM we started to see what looked like a huge dust cloud on the horizon, but didn’t really think much about it. After all, it’d been a very dry and very dusty day (humidity had dropped to the single digits and winds were gusting up to 50MPH). We knew there was a threat of fire, given the conditions, but like all these things you always imagine the actual probability of the thing happening is too remotely low to worry about.

Hwy 118 out of town

At 5PM the rangers started coming round to tell us to prepare for evacuation. By this time the cloud had grown ominously dark and we could smell the smoke. That’s when we knew it was serious and we were under threat of fire. Only an hour later the evacuation notice was given. Most of the roads were blocked so were diverted to Hwy 118 towards Kent. It was very tight and curved, but Paul did beautifully and about an hour later we were parked in a lot at an abandoned Chevron Station in Kent, TX safe and sound by Hwy 10.

The parking lot next to I-10 in Kent where we spent the night

What a ride! Since we got here I’ve learned the fire has engulfed part of the town and is still ranging. We spoke to some RVers at the parking lot last night who said they saw the fire crest the hilltop above the campground as they were leaving. One RV was still there, the owners likely away for a day-trip. We feel both shocked and relieved that we’re out of there. Only yesterday morning we were walking that same hill that burned, and had no inkling of what was to come. Thankfully, as an RV all we need to do is raise our jacks and we’re ready to leave with everything we own in the world, but if we hadn’t been home we might not have known and for the townspeople it’s a whole other matter.

Last shot from last night at the abandoned Chevron station by Kent, TX. Dust-winds near I-10 gave us a hazy sunset.

From what I’ve learned the fire started at ~1:30PM yesterday only ~23 miles south of Fort Davis at Marfa and managed to reach town by 6PM fueled by dry vegetation and winds. It moved FAST, so much so that it’s outrun livestock and hasn’t been able to be contained. Thankfully the authorities were on top on the situation and managed to evacuate everyone in time. Everything depends on the conditions today. Although winds died down overnight, they’re expected to pick back up again today and humidity is still dangerously low. We’ll be thinking of the hard-working firemen today and hoping they get it under control. As for us, we’ll probably head into New Mexico, but I don’t think we’ve heard the end of this blaze.

Latest news from this morning:
It Was a Wave of Fire (Big Bend Now)

The Golden Draw of the Davis Mountains, TX

Last light in the Davis Mountains

It all started around ~35 million years ago. The earth was in a state of intense geological flux and in West Texas the subduction of the Farallon Plate caused a volcanic explosion with ~10,000 times the force of Mt. Saint Helens. Over the next 10 million years of movement and flow, the Davis Mountains were created. As I sit peacefully meditating on the wild expanse of golden hills around me, I’m right in the middle of the creation and I find it hard to imagine the forces involved.

Paul gets inspired to do some early morning Yoga

The Davis Mountains are a stunning chain of mountains centered in the West of Texas rising up to 8,378 ft. on the summit of Mount Livermore. They are wild, remote, exposed and absolutely spectacular. As we wound our way through the hills on our way here we were oohed and aahed by the view. The ride is a 40 mile jaunt from I-10, so it’s not exactly a hop and a skip but it’s definitely worth the trip. This is way “out there” and it’s just so darn peaceful that I’m completely captivated. 

Golden views from the campground

It’s also really dry….really, really dry. In fact it’s hard to believe that just a few weeks ago, on the other side of Texas, we were running the aircon in an attempt to dry out the RV. Things have certainly changed and we’ve dropped from ~80% humidity to a meager ~10%, a number several factors drier than a Noël Coward martini(*). The body just doesn’t adapt overnight and the whole process leads to a rather comic set of progressions that I just had to share. I’ve aptly titled them “you know it’s dry when….”

You know it’s Dry When….

1.  You consider harnessing the static electricity from the pets to recharge the RV house batteries
2. Your eyeballs feel like they’ve been scrubbed with 80-grit sandpaper
3. You begin to see the formations of the Grand Canyon in your skin
4. You’re able to reproduce the hair-raising effects of the Van Der Graff Generator without….ermmm…the generator
5. You create a steady supply of ready salt seasoning from the instantaneous evaporation on your skin
6. Nina-the-human-camel is actually thirsty

Much more to come from here, but for the sake of maintaining a minimal of decorum it’s probably best that I leave it there.

(*) For those interested, the famous quote from Noël Coward was that a perfect martini should be made by “filling a glass with gin then waving it in the general direction of Italy”

In Nature’s Paradise

The gorgeous and refreshing South Llano River

We’ve decided to spend a few more days here in Nature’s Paradise at South Llano State River Park. It’s simply a gorgeous spot, teeming with outdoor attractions and the wild, unpredictable beauty of the Hill Country desert. A few days back daytime temps hit 100°F and we were holed up in the RV struggling to keep cool with 30Amp hookup and a single aircon. Then, in a flight of fickle fancy the desert changed it’s mood and brought down a cold spell bringing overnight temperatures to near freezing and forcing on the furnace. It’s the law of the West and there’s nowhere else that can take you through a complete set of wardrobe changes faster, bringing a whole new meaning to the term “quick draw”.

One of the rare blooming flowers in the park. Claret Cup Cactus.

We’ve whiled the days away hiking the many miles of wilderness trails, admiring sweeping views of the valley, and going for quick and mighty refreshing dips in the river. In a mad burst of energetic inspiration, which I can only attribute to “the desert makes you do weird things”, yours truly even dry-washed the entire RV with Protect All. So, although the dog may resemble a dusty sponge, and our skin is starting to leather and camouflage with the ground, the RV is gleaming happily in the sun for at least for a day or so until the desert gets to it.

Sweeping views from the top of Fawn Trail

We’ve also attempted some birding, taking advantage of the multiple bird blinds set-up inside the park that host over 220 species of avians. Our attempts at the latter, admittedly, have been rather poor given that the pooch and us have rather divergent views on the matter. All that fluttering and hopping about is simply far too enticing for doggie so although we both share a burning interest, our expected outcome is…ahem….somewhat different.

We’re going to enjoy the cooler air for another day and then escape the week-end (and the next forecasted hot-spell) by driving off into the Mountains. In the meantime I’ll leave you with dreams of warm desert wind, tweeting birds and far-away places.

Early morning walk in the hills

Bird blinds are everywhere here.

Wild Turkeys And Juniper Berries – South Llano, TX

The oasis of South Llano River

The change happened somewhere around Frederiksberg, TX. We were in the midst of a lovely drive through the Hill Country admiring the lush, green nature and the cute Germanic-inspired towns awash with restaurants and tourists feasting on sausage and sauerkraut. It was a perfect day and the towns reflected a spirit of festivity and early Spring. In the very middle of this European day-dream the desert spoke to us. As if on command the humidity dropped, the temperature hit 95˚F and a dust cloud blew across a tuft of withered grass. This was it folks. On an imaginary line in the middle of West Texas we had left the East and finally entered into the West!

Wild Turkeys in S.Llano River State Park

Located only ~150 miles West of Austin, the area of Junction and the South Llano River is a completely different ecosystem from the rest of Texas. Here the rolling hills are covered with cactus, blueberry junipers, agrita, condalia, yucca and Texas persimmon mixed in with wild grasses and dusty ground. It’s a forbidding place where daytime temperatures can soar to above 100˚F and nighttime can plummet to the 50˚F’s. Yet the place is teeming with wildlife. The wooded land of South Llano is one of the few roosting areas for the shy and sensitive Rio Grande Wild Turkey and is a protected habitat for them, boasting an enormous population of ~800 birds during roosting season. It’s also has the feel of a Western desert hosting deer, rabbits, rattlesnakes, coyotes, and mountain lions.

Blueberry Juniper

During the day the sun beats down mercilessly on this hot oven and all is eerily still, but in-between there’s life and activity. In the early morning, before the sun-roast, a soft, cool breeze blows thought the bushes accompanied by an orchestra of birds. In the late afternoon, right before the sun sets, the ground releases it’s abundance of heat in a wild, warm wind that invites the stars and the predators of the night. Normally this time of year would see this place abloom with wildflowers, but an unusually dry winter and hotter spring has left it barren. Despite all this it’s still a stunning spot and the kind of place that draws you in.

The taste of the desert always fills me with a sense of adventure and wild solitude. Being as I am rather off-the-beaten track myself, I have to admit the West has a particular attraction for me and I’m very happy to be back. Here you can let your hair grow long, merge with the wilderness and delve into the depths of your primal soul. Bring it on Wild West, I’m home to greet you with open arms!

Normally this area would be awash in wildflowers

A lonely flower - The Spanish Dagger

A Final Austin Roundup

For those of you who like this sort of place, this is the sort of place you like.

Oh, the sause...the sause.....Rudy's BBQ

Well folks, it’s time to round-up the pack, lift the jacks and get going to the next location. We’ve had a fabulous 10 days here in Austin and it’s gone down as one of our favorite big cities. It’s a fascinating mix. Despite its designation as the State Capitol of Texas it’s got its own unique vibe. There’s a good dose of rugged, old-style Texas, but also an infusion of West Coast, a touch of the bohemian and edges of Asian. The growth of the semiconductor and technology industry over the past few decades caused a boom in this town bringing in slews of young folks from CA and all that comes with it. There are big Asian communities in the area providing a full assortment of authentic food and Asian markets. And then there’s the farmers’ markets, the University and the health stores bringing a spot of the bohemian to the place.

The pretty town square at Lockhart, TX

We’ve worked hard to get our fill. On the BBQ side we went from The Salt Lick in Driftwood, to Rudy’s (the fatty brisket is outstanding) with a day-trip to the BBQ central of Texas just 20 mins south in Lockhart TX (Rex Vogel did a fabulous series of posts on this area in his blog). We indulged the gourmet in us with Trailer Food, satisfied our Asian longings with Taiwanese Spicy Beef Noodle Soup and bubble-milk tea (these brought back many fine memories of my years in Taiwan), and met both old friends (a good friend of Paul’s, IMei moved over here with her husband)  and made new ones (Caroline, a blog reader, popped by with her hubby). And finally we attempted to walk it all off with some relaxing and pretty hikes in McKinney Falls State Park.

There is so much more we haven’t seen here, but this will definitely go down as our kind of town and a place to come back to wanting more.

No plates here...just your meat! Rudy's

Taiwanese bubble-milk tea from Coco's Cafe

Farmers’ Markets & One-Wok Cooking

Locally-grown mushrooms at Sunset Valley Farmers Market

We’re still on our gastronomical kick here in Austin. Over the week-end we attended a Farmers’ Market in Sunset Valley, one of our favorite local activities and a great way to get fresh, seasonal produce and sample specialties from the region. Austin, being a very food-oriented city, has several major Farmers’ Markets which offer a plethora of choices in organic vegetables, honey, chocolate, raw cheeses, mushrooms, and pastured (grass-fed) meat and eggs. We load up at these places and will stuff as much as we possibly can into the RV fridge in preparation for many splendid evenings of gourmet cooking at home.

Fresh and luscious veggies

And we looooove cooking at home, absolutely love it. For many years we believed in “the bigger the kitchen the better the cooking”. That was our motto right up until the time we moved to Asia and spent 2 years living in Hong Kong in a mini-apartment. The kitchen, believe it or not, was far smaller than one we currently have in our RV, having no oven, no fridge, a simple portable 2-burner stove-top and only barely enough space to squeeze by each other if we held our breath. It was, simply put, the worst kitchen we had ever lived in, and we were flummoxed as to how to cook in it…..until the day we discovered the Wok.

My beloved wok

We actually had a Wok, like many people do. It was something we’d bought 6 years or so before our Asia experience with great excitement. We paid ~$15 for it in San Francisco China Town, seasoned it ourselves, proceeded to do 2-3 stir-fry’s in it and then promptly stored it away for all eternity, because after all, how many stir-frys do you really need? Our mini-kitchen experience brought it back to life and it was only then we discovered the true value of this fabulous Asian tool. The wok is both deep, voluminous, can handle all kinds of heat and yet is a super-space saver on the stove-top. During our years in HK we learned to use it almost exclusively. Besides the basic stir-fry we discovered we could make soups with it, steam vegetables, create curries, do pasta, roast meat, cook stews, make flat-bread…just about anything! It became our ultimate cooking machine and we finally understood why Asians (who often have v.small kitchens) love it so much.

Steaming pastured duck from a Farmers' Market in CA in the wok

When we moved into the RV the trusty wok came with us, and it’s been a super-utensil ever since. If I could have only one pot, this would be it and I try to promote it whenever I can. So, if you’ve never discovered the ultimate RV cooking utensil you may want to go Asian-style and give this a go. Cooking gourmet-style in the RV is just one pot away

Trailer Food Gourmet – Austin, TX

The gourmet menu at Odd Ducks

So we were on our 3rd day in Austin and our quest for gastronomic indulgence had progressed. Having revelled in homestyle Texas BBQ (with several refills at home) we had now attained a mood for gourmet. Our guts were groaning for high society, delicate flavors and a je ne sais quois. Indeed, we were feeling decidedly…epicurean. Perhaps a roasted Quail with sweet-potato salad and soft-boiled duck egg, or perchance some Prime Rib with farm-fresh vegetables? What we wanted was flavour, indulgence, pizzazz, creativity and gourmet. In other words, we wanted it ALL, but being RVers, we wanted it without the black tie and wallet drain.  

Trey's Cuisine offering succulent kebab's

Obviously what we needed was a food trailer. Yes, believe it or not gourmet food comes down to the streets in Austin. We’d seen a show about it on The Food Network about a year ago, and the whole thing had fascinated us. Appealing to both our nomadic lifestyle and our stomachs, it was one of our main reasons for visiting this city.

Food trucks, of course, are nothing new. The history of mobile food dates back to traditional nomadic tribes with more modern versions coming in the form of field kitchens used during the various wars. The first motorized food carts (“mobile canteens“) evolved around WWII and spread quickly from there to serve local neighborhoods. From your local hot-dog stand in the US to kebabs in the UK or satay carts in Singapore everyone everywhere has tried one at some point in their lives. They’re fast, friendly and satisfy a quick urge.  

Creative doughnut offerings at Gourdough's in S.Lamar

But here in Austin they’ve taken on a totally new twist. Young chefs with budding ideas and limited capital have moved into trailers to deliver their creations. It’s spawned a rapidly growling and completely unique sub-culture of fine dining on the streets, and there’s literally no limits to what you can find.

The prime rib kabob from Trey's. Just delicious!

Our quest went to South Lamar and a little cluster of 3 trucks, Trey’s Cuisine (succulent kabobs), Odd Duck (specializing in farm to market gourmet-style cuisine) and Gourdough‘s (Donuts a-la-creative with every type of savory and sweet version you couldn’t imagine). Our prime rib kabob from Trey’s was perfect. Juicy meat, perfectly grilled vegetables and home-made sauce (the jalapeno-pesto was especially tasty). In the mood for Japanese, try Love Balls Bus or leaning towards Korean/Mexican, taste Chi’Lantro, or going all the way to African, dig into Cazemance. No matter what your penchant, you can find a place that serves it up street-style. There are literally hundreds of these delicious kitchens on wheels around and a few online guides to help you find your favorite:

• Austin Food Carts – Complete guide and map to finding your favorite trailer http://austinfoodcarts.com/
• Food Trailers in Austin – Blog and guide to the local scene http://www.foodtrailersaustin.com/

We’ve only just tasted the tip of the trailer food scene in Austin and plan on going back many more times before we leave. This is, most definitely, our kinda eating!

Happiness Amongst Weeds

 “Happiness is not something you postpone for the future; it is something you design for the present”
Jim Rohn

It's a beautiful day in nature

I was inspired by a brilliant post on happiness from fellow RVer and blogger live.work.dream the other day. It got me thinking about life, joy and positivity, all of which led me to weeds. It’s a convoluted thing my brain, at times, but somehow it all makes sense. You see I’ve always been very happy in nature. Like a pig in mud I thrill at the joy of dirt under my nails, the sounds of birds chirping in the air, the brilliant splash of color hidden in the ground. The more in tune with all that I get, the better I feel and this rings true all the way down to the weeds on the ground.

The beauty of weeds

As insignificant and annoying as they may be, weeds can be some of the most brilliant, most beautiful and most fascinating things around. Wild and wonderful, they bring a dash of color as wildflowers, an element of sculpture as dried and sustenance to thousands of other species who depend on their existence. I can easily lose myself in the wonder of it all, especially with my trusty camera in tow.

Gems beneath your feet

And that brings me back to happiness. I’ve never been a naturally happy person (being rather prone to the serious side of life), but I work at it everyday, and for that reason I’m most certainly a naturally happy person. As paradoxical as that seems it’s absolutely true. I learned about affirmations in my 20′s, after a rather difficult period of depression, and from there progressed to meditation, yoga and the exercise of daily mental optimism. I consider it a work-out for my brain. In the same way that your body gets stronger by lifting weights your mind becomes happier via the practice of rejoicing.

So now you understand why weeds make me happy. By sharing that little piece of paradise with you, I’m hoping it’ll rub off and bring cheer to your day too. So, whatever your bliss may be, wherever your joy is found go out there and make it happen. For happiness is something that’s worth doing now.

A splash of color

A sculpture of nature

Grace in cactus

Simple Elegance