Spring Blooms In Summer

Blooms galore in the forest

So it’s officially the first day of summer, the solstice, the longest day of the year. Technically the earth’s axis is at exactly 23.4 degrees relative to the sun. Historically it’s a day of celebration, ceremony and fascinating pagan rites, but in Nina terms it means beautifully long sunny days and barefoot walks in the grass.

It’s the turn of a season and the beginning of a  fabulous new day.

Beautiful blue in the turf

We woke up in style to the most glorious of mornings, slightly on the chilly side but beautifully refreshing, and astonished to find the very first drops of rain this year had fallen in our forested “back yard”.

After I had peeled off the cat (who had hermetically sealed herself to me with the low temps overnight), and put the hair back on hubby’s chest with  an espresso so solid even a Turk would approve, I took pooch by the reins and bounded with youthful joy, or my best impression thereof, into the moist and fragrant forest.

A show of white for the morning

Ahhh to be a fawn of the forest, fairy of the trees and dryad of the greens. Doggie and I skipped with all abandon up the creek and immersed ourselves in the new scents of dew.

And then I noticed the blooms.

Not that I hadn’t seen them before, but on this day they seemed to shine particularly bright. As if on cue blooms of spring much delayed by drought and a long winter blanketed the forest for the first day of summer.

A dust of dandelion

We had a fine time pooch and I, out there by ourselves. I snapped up flower shots on my stomach while doggie bounded around with ever-hopeful thoughts of rabbits and squirrels. No locals were harmed and we returned with dignity intact to the campground. 

It may our last day in the forest, and the end of a very enchanted ride, but it’s the beginning of a whole new season and I, for one, am really looking forward to it.

NFS Campground Review – Columbine Canyon, Questa, NM

Enjoying a glass by the stream next to our RV site at Columbine Canyon

A lovely forest campground next to a running stream near Questa on the Enchanted Circle in NE New Mexico.

Link to campground here: Columbine Canyon, Carson Forest, NM
Link to map location here: Columbine Canyon, Carson Forest, NM

1. Site Quality = 4/5
   Very nice site quality here, especially for a National Forest. All sites are paved with a good selection of larger and relatively flat ones. The entrance to the campground has a small circle of 8 large, perfectly flat open sites easily accessible to big rigs, but with limited shade/privacy. The remainder of the campground runs away from the main road up alongside a creek and has more private and dispersed forested sites of varying size/flatness. On left a selection of back-ins (#10-17 or so), with pull-throughs on right (#21 onwards), several of which can accommodate larger rigs. All sites have good separation, lovely “sitting areas” with picnic table and fire-pit, while some even have direct stream-access (e.g. #26/27). No hookups.
2.  Facilities = 2/5
   Very basic facilities here. There are several sets of pit toilets, kept nicely clean and several water spigots. Access to the stream and many (many) miles of hiking directly from camp. No showers or dump station.
3. Location = 5/5
   Another lovely location. You are deep in the woods here, shielded from the wind and right next to miles of wonderful hiking. Short drive to popular Red River as well as to visit other sights (e.g. Wild Rivers BLM).
4. Pet Friendliness = 5/5
   Great pet playground. The stream provides wonderful refreshment, plus there are literally days worth of hiking in Carson National Forest on the trails directly from camp.

Overall Rating = 4
BONUS ALERT = Camp deep in the woods next to the calming song of a running stream!

Summary: There are 5 forest campgrounds on the Northern End of the Enchanted Circle between Red River and Questa, but Columbine Canyon is by far the most accessible, quietest and nicest in our opinion. Set beautifully in the forest right alongside a running stream, the campground has both fully open sites as well as more private forested sites. All are paved with good access, nice separation and a selection large and flat enough for bigger rigs. There are lovely “sitting areas” and even a few sites with direct stream access (we thought our site #26 by far the nicest of the lot). The surrounding area has plenty to do and see including Red River, Wild Rivers BLM and literally days worth of hiking (there is access to at least 40 miles or so directly from the campground). This is a typical primitive forest campground with no hookups and no dump station but it feels wonderfully peaceful and secluded. It also has full protection from those famous New Mexico winds, a rarity in the area. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay and would most certainly come again.

 Extra Info:  Verizon extended network with a few bars, so you’ll get a slow 1X connection, but no more. Sites cost $15/night (no hookups). All 27 sites are first-come-first-serve. Several on-site water spigots, but NO dump station.

Extra, Extra Info: More Remote? If you’re looking for something more remote El Aguaje Campground at Wild Rivers BLM has plenty of room for big rigs and allows camping right on the upper rim of the gorgeous Rio Grande Canyon for $7/night (no hookups). Very few people seem to go there.

Extra, Extra, Extra Info: Boondocking? There is aparently a lovely boondocking spot nearer to Taos off Forest Service road 9 at Cebola Mesa. Official RV size limit is 32′, but we weren’t able to make it over there to check if they take bigger. If anyone goes, let me know!

View from front of campground down right-side of loop. Pull-through #27 on left. You can just (barely) see our RV peeking out in pull-through #26 behind it.

Another view down campground loop from the upper side. Site #22 in front, with an RV in site #23 behind it.

Typical back-in site (#12 shown)

View down campground loop showing one of vault toilets and site #14 behind it

View from top of loop. You can just see site #17 hidden on left.

View of "circle" at front of campground with sites #1-8

View of one of large, spacious and flat back-in sites in lower circle. Site #3 shown.

View of our very spacious and private "sitting area" by site #26. Although you can't see it in the pic, the stream runs directly on the left.

Finding Great Things to Do on the Road

A scenic shot from Wild Rivers BLM overlook at the confluence of Red River and the Rio Grande. A fabulous recommendation from our camphosts.

We’ve been very busy these past weeks exploring all the cool little corners of The Enchanted Circle NM. There is so much to see here, and so many interesting side-stories to discover. From hidden petroglyphs in the Rio Grande Valley, to the moving and beautiful Vietnam Veterans Memorial (the life-work of a father in memory of his son), stream hikes in Cimarron and Columbine Canyons, gold history in Elizabethtown, beer and music festivals in Red River (another one coming up this week-end) and wild, wide open views at Wild Rivers BLM (talk about remote!). It’s a wonder we get time to eat and sleep!

The very moving and beautiful Vietnam Veterans Memorial near Angel Fire, NM

Some time ago someone asked me on the blog how we find all these interesting spots. I do seem to have a happily gifted nose for good food and wine which, combined with a total lack of direction leads us into a plethora of unusual and fascinating areas. But, I also cheat a bit and figured I would share some of those ideas on the blog. So,with that said here’s my winning poker hand for finding great things to do on the road.

A restored wagon in Eagle Nest. We got tons of interesting history on the place from the Visitor Center and our neighbors.

1/ Go to the Visitors Center – Many major towns, especial those with a bit of a tourist bent have a visitors center, and if you get chatting you can find out all kinds of interesting things to see and do. They’re a great resource from anything from sightseeing to hiking and eating out.

2/ Talk to the Camphost – If you’re in a campground with a host, they’ll often be someone who’s very familiar with the area. As an example our current host here in Columbine Canyon Forest has been coming to this area for 40 years. Talk about experience! He gave us tips on great hikes as well as the remote (and totally amazing) Wild Rivers BLM. I always make it a point to chat to the host.

Hidden petroglyphs on the Vista Verde trail at Orilla Verde. We found them by chatting with the local Ranger about his favorite hike.

3/ Meet the Ranger - If you’re anywhere near a forest or BLM, the local ranger can be a wealth of information. Not only can they tell you about camping and boondocking spots, but they’ll help you root out some great hikes too. We met the lead ranger at Wild Rivers the other day who gave us all kinds of history on the area as well as the best place to remote-camp with the beast (it’s El Aguaje Campground in Wild Rivers, by the way -> *no-one* goes there). After an hour chat he even offered us a hosting job. We may well come back for that one!

The cute little ski town of Red River rocks it out with food, wine and music festivals throughout summer. A good tip from our neighbours.

4/ Get Friendly With Your Neighbors – I’m naturally a very sociable person and will usually stop to chat to neighbors in the campground. You’ll often meet people who are local or have traveled to spots you have yet to see. In Eagle Nest we met a couple who RV for blues festivals and that’s how we found out about the week-end gig at Red River. We also met Bob at the same campground…the guy who knows a guy who knows about the gold…you know…

5/ Go Online - The online RV forums are a *wealth* of information on RVing, but they can also be great resources for things to see and do. If I’m testing out a route or destination I’ll often ask on the forums. There are also a bunch of great websites including Roadside America, a fabulous resource for quirky and unusual attractions on the road.

Hiking to Gold Mountain in Columbine Canyon. A wonderful recommendation from our host.

Oh and if you’re wondering how I get all the cool low-down, apart from natural charm and bribes I ask two very simple questions…first ”What is your favorite thing to see/do/eat in the area?”…and second “Why?”. The lead-off question gets the info flowing, but the second question gets to the really juicy stuff. It’s an old sales-trick don’t you know, and it works every time. Got any tips of your own?

Tales of a Babbling Brook – Red River, NM

The babbling brook by our RV site

We’ve had the fine fortune to camp by rivers and water these past few weeks. After our week-long stint at the beautiful Eagle Nest we decided to work our way further around the Enchanted Circle and sneak off for the week-end into the forest. We’ve found a near-perfect site nestled in the woods with partial shade and the wonderful song of a babbling brook running alongside our site only 10 feet from the RV (yeah, it’s niiiice!)

Now, for whatever reason I find streams so very relaxing. Something about the rhythm and flow of the water seems to ooze into every pore of my being and infuse me with the very essence of “aaaaaahhh”. It quite literally speaks to me and all of life’s mysteries seem to unfold in the telling. The experience reminds me of one of my favorite short stories, namely that of Siddhartha and since it seemed appropriate to where we’re staying and what we’re doing at the moment I thought I’d share the tale on the blog. 

Relaxing by the stream in Cimarron Canyon

Now, Siddhartha is a wonderful little book from 1922 by Herman Hesse that tells the story of the spiritual journey of an Indian man during the time of Buddha. He starts life as the wealthy son of a Brahmin but decides to set out and find enlightenment. His journey takes him through multiple life experiences including that of being an ascetic, a lover, and a successful businessman. He learns much from each of these experiences, but still doesn’t achieve peace in his spirit. Towards the end of the book he ends up with a poor ferryman by a river. He has lost a son and feels very despondent, but is encouraged to stay. The old ferryman is bonded to the river and induces him to listen to it:

Are you listening?

“Do you hear?” Vasudeva’s mute gaze asked.  Siddhartha nodded.
“Listen better!” Vasudeva whispered.

Siddhartha listened….often before, he had heard all this, these many voices in the river, today it sounded new….when he heard them all, perceived the whole, the oneness, then the great song of the thousand voices consisted of a single word, which was Om:
the perfection.

In that moment all of life’s mysteries open up in the song of the river and Siddhartha finds the joy of enlightenment.

I’m not sure my experience out here will be quite as dramatic, but I know the river is talking to me. I’m happy to sit down with a book, relax by the stream and listen to it babble away. Who knows what it’s going to tell me today?

SP Campground Review – Eagle Nest Lake State Park, Eagle Nest, NM

Hanging out at gorgeous Eagle Nest Lake

A primitive lake-side State Park campground with gorgeous 360-degree views on the Enchanted Circle in NE New Mexico.

Link to campground here: Eagle Nest Lake State Park, NM
Link to map location here: Eagle Nest Lake State Park, NM

1. Site Quality = 3.5/5
   This is a primitive (no hookup) campground, but sites are very nice. The sites on the outside of the loop are all flat, spacious dirt pull-throughs with lake views and lovely “sitting area” (shelter, picnic table, fire-pit/grill). Inside sites are long back-ins. Easy access throughout, even for bigger rigs and good separation between campers. No shade, but excellent 360-degree views of the surrounding mountains and lake.
2.  Facilities = 2/5
   Very basic facilities here. There are pit toilets in the campground, one set of flush toilets at the visitors center and that’s about it. No showers or dump station. On-site water spigot and day-use areas with access to the lake for boating & fishing.
3. Location = 5/5
   Lovely location for the area. You’re right next to beautiful Eagle Nest Lake with access to boating/fishing (apparently some of the best fishing in the area). Very close to the cute ski-town of Angel Fire as well as the pretty Cimarron Canyon with hiking in both. Short drive to popular Red River.
4. Pet Friendliness = 5/5
   Another lovely doggie spot. Plenty of space to hang out in camp as well as opportunity to splash and swim in the lake. Nearby hiking in Angel Fire and Cimarron Canyon.

Overall Rating = 3.9
BONUS ALERT = Camp with 360-degree views of alpine mountains and lake!

Summary: This is a rather new State Park set right next to the gorgeous Eagle Nest Lake in a wide, alpine valley at ~8,300 feet. The campground is small (19 sites only) and primitive (deliberately kept that way so as not to compete with the nearby RV parks..of which there are several) so there are no showers, no hookups and no dump station. But, all that is made amply up for by the location and the view! Sites are lovely, large, flat with nice “sitting areas” (shelters/table/fire-pit) and 360-degree views including the stunning Mt.Wheeler. All have good lake views and you’re only a short 100-feet from the water with some of the best fishing in the area (according to locals). No shade in camp and you need to be ready for the famous NM winds, but temperatures are cooler than surrounding lower elevations in summer. The road coming into camp is dirt, but access is excellent and there is lots to see and do in the surrounding area. We had a look at the nearby Cimarron Canyon State Park, but it’s a lot more cramped with very limited access for bigger rigs so we were happy with our choice to stay at Eagle Nest. Overall a lovely little park with gorgeous views. We would certainly come again.

 Extra Info:  Verizon extended network only here, so you’ll get a good 1X connection, but no more. Sites cost $10/night (no hookups). Camping fees can be covered with New Mexico Annual Camping Permit. 19 sites overall. Approx. half of sites are reservable, half are first-come-first-serve. On-site water spigot, but NO dump station.

View of our pull-through site (#18)

Typical pull-through site (#5 shown)

Typical back-in site on inside of loop (#9 shown)

Typical "sitting area' with shelter, picnic table and fire-pit. Site #10 shown.

View down campground loop from front of our RV (site #16 in front with #14 & #12 behind it)

View down other site of campground loop (Site #7 on left with #5, #3, #1 behind it)

View forward down front of loop. Reservation sites #8 & #10 shown front to back.

The facilities in the middle of the campground.. You can see RVs parked around the outside of the loop in the background.