SP Campground Review – Heron Lake State Park, Los Ojos, NM

The very pretty Heron Lake

A nice, spacious State Park within walking distance of Heron Lake in North-Central New Mexico.

Link to campground here: Heron Lake State Park, NM
Link to map location here: Heron Lake State Park, NM

1. Site Quality = 4/5
   Heron Lake has ~6 separate camping areas dotted around Heron Lake. The electric hookups are in Willow Creek/Blanco area of which Blanco is the newer and (by far) more spacious campground.
   -> In Blanco the sites are very large (several could easily fit 2 big-rigs), very flat gravel with great separation, 30Amp/water, picnic table and fire-pit. There are both pull-throughs and back-ins with varying levels of shade.
   -> Willow Creek has a similar set-up, but campsites are much closer together with less privacy. Willow does have 4 full hookup sites. 
   My main ding is that there are no real views of the lake from either Blanco or Willow Creek.
   -> Outside of these two there are ~5 other primitive and non-hookup camping areas dotted around the lake. Most are very tight, more uneven and not suitable for big-rigs. The only area we thought accessible was Ponderosa Campground (non-hookup) which had limited shade/privacy, but did boast more open roads/sites and full views of the water.
2.  Facilities = 3.5/5
   Good facilities. Flush toilets and showers, all spacious and kept decently clean. Only ding is that (like all the state parks here) they have that timer button on the shower. All campgrounds have access to the lake via either trails or boat ramp. Picnic and fishing opportunities. On-site dump station.
3. Location = 3/5
   The campground here is nicely located next to Heron Lake, but is a tad longer drive from town (~15 miles to Chama) and the associated sights. Another slight ding is the lake area right near the campground is covered in very large slate blocks making walking along the shore a little more adventurous. However there is plenty of opportunity to fish and hike on-site including the pretty Rio Chama trail.
4. Pet Friendliness = 5/5
   Good doggie-spot. Lots of hiking right from the campground as well as short 10-min walk to the lake to splash and play.

Overall Rating = 3.9
BONUS ALERT = Spacious camping within walking distance of Heron Lake!

Summary: Heron Lake is a fairly large State Park with ~7 separate campgrounds dotted around Heron Reservoir. It’s a slightly unusual lake in that portions of the shoreline are covered in large slate blocks. However it’s set beautifully with lots of hiking and areas to fish. The electric hookup sites (Willow/Blanco) are spacious and pretty, especially the newer Blanco section. Neither of these have views of the lake, but it’s a short 10-min walk away. Many opportunities for non-hookup and primitive camping around other areas of the lake. You are ~15 miles from Chama and the associated sights. The campsite does seem popular and fills up with families in the week-end, but still manages to feel natural and relaxed. Overall a decent location in a good setting. It doesn’t make the top of our New Mexico stay, but it’s a lovely area and we’d certainly stay again.

 Extra Info:  Decent 3G connection from Blanco. Sites cost $18/night (full hookup – 4 sites in Willow Creek only), $14/night for 30Amp electric/water and $10/night (no hookups). Camping fees can be covered with New Mexico Annual Camping Permit. 60 sites in electric (Willow/Blanco) area with ~250 developed sites overall. Approx. 75% of sites in Willow/Blanco are reservable, with reminder first-come-first-serve. On-site dump station.

Extra, Extra Info – Railroad Buff? If you’re a true railroad buff and would like to be right next to the action, the private Rio Chama RV Park is right in town and walking distance to the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad. It gets good reviews.

View of our extremely spacious and private site in Blanco (non-reservation site #60). Easily space for 2 "beasts" in here.

Typical back-in site in Blanco (reservation site #43 shown)

View of one of the large pull-throughs (#54). These guys actually parked 2 rigs in here, although I'm not sure it's technically allowed?

View down campground loop in Blanco showing lovely separation (site #55 on right and #57 in background on left)

Another view down Blanco. Site #38 on right, #39 on left.

View of on-site facilities

Vision of a Mountain Railroad – Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad NM, CO

One of the many different locomotives still in use on the Cumbres and Toltec Railroad

Like all great projects they claimed it couldn’t be done. Yet in the end all it took was a man, a vision, some industrial ingenuity and the fortitude to make it happen. It was the early 1870′s and prospectors in hunt of gold and precious metals had flooded out west, most making the perilous journey over the Colorado mountains by wagon. Seeing the opportunity William Jackson Palmer founded a new company the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. His dream was the vision of a connection from Denver to El Paso, Texas and he was a man at the forefront of his time.

The terminus and narrow-gauge (3-foot) tracks at Chama, NM

What gave Palmer the edge was the idea of using narrow-gauge tracks. In the midst of a massive mining boom Palmer drove 3-foot gauge tracks (compared to the standard 4-foot 8 ½ inches) deeper, higher and over more rugged terrain than any other constructor. He built an extensive network of lines into small mountain mining towns in Southern Colorado and by 1890 boasted the largest narrow-gauge railroad line in North America. With competition rife and the advent of larger locomotives however, Palmer was eventually forced to convert most of his tracks to standard gauge, but because of an interesting twist (the Sherman Act of 1893) a precious few remained.

The scenic stop at Cumbres Pass (elev. 10,015 feet)

The Cumbres and Toltec Railroad encompasses the modern living history of one of these remaining line. Built in 1880 as Rio Grande’s San Juan Extension, serving the silver mining district of the San Juan mountains, it is the longest (64 miles long) and highest (peaking at 10,015 feet) coal-fired, steam operated narrow-gauge railroad in North America.

And…IT…IS…COOooooL!

Historic shot of a rotary snowplow at work. Drifts sometimes reached 20-feet at Cumbres Pass.

Now, normally I’m not the type to get wound up in a tizzy about railroads, but this thing has been so beautifully preserved by such a passionate group of people that it is positively electrifying. The southern terminal at Chama, NM is gorgeously set at the base of the San Juan Mountains and supports a small museum, original terminus building, 1899 machine shop, tool sheds, coal tipple, stock yards and over 100 historic freight and maintenance-of-way cars including the original Rio Grande steam locomotives.

One of the genius rotary snow plows on display

There are contraptions I’ve never seen or imagined including the genius rotary snow-plow, massive machines that cleared snow drifts over the high passes in winter. Groups of passionate volunteers (Friends of Cumbres and Toltec) are on-hand to answer questions and support the railroad, while cars and the orignal railroad yards are open for self-guided visits. You can then either take a ride on the train or follow the tracks by car on the fabulously scenic Hwy 17 to Antonito, CO.

One of the many train rides open on the Cumbres and Toltec Railroad (map from http://www.cumbrestoltec.com)

Whether you’re a rail enthusiast or just an interested tourist, no doubt this is a touch of industrial history worth seeing. It’s the story of a man’s vision preserved  and transformed into a fascinating collection of artifacts. And, you can still get on and take the ride….cool, indeed!

The restored telegraph office at Chama terminus in New Mexico

The car inspectors house at Cumbres Pass (elev. 10,015 feet).

Following the tracks along scenic Hwy 17

Last Few Days of Enchantment – Lake Heron, NM

Mine....all mine....!

We’re nearing the end of our time here in New Mexico. What started off as a potential 2-week trip with the idea that ”we’ll just make a couple of stops” turned into a tremendous 2-month exploration of a fascinating and diverse place.  I’m not exaggerating when I say that New Mexico has blown us away. It’s a hidden gem and seems so under-visited that you can easily find remote and relaxing spots almost everywhere. We’ve camped without reservations and without a fixed timeframe, a luxury we don’t always have with a “beast” our size. 

At the beginning of our time here, I sat overlooking the sunset at Brantley Lake and declared myself ready to be enchanted. There’s no doubt the travel gods heard me and gave us a better ride than we could ever have imagined.

Definitely the only nutters out here

We’ve got a few more days in the very quaint and cute area of Chama in North-Central New Mexico before we go. Yet again we’re next to a gorgeous lake (Heron Lake) and have established ourselves firmly as the only nutters who are actually walking and swimming in it. You can’t blame the Cuban-boy -> if anything Mr.Florida man should be shunning these chilly waters. Then again perhaps the Danish girl is rubbing off on him, or pooch is getting really good at goading him on, or it’s just the magic of New Mexico bathing his soul.

There’s no doubt the enchantment of this place has weaved its way into our hearts. New Mexico has made its mark and we’ll most definitely have to come back for more.

So, you coming in or what?

Just another beautiful, deserted lake

Spring Blooms In Summer

Blooms galore in the forest

So it’s officially the first day of summer, the solstice, the longest day of the year. Technically the earth’s axis is at exactly 23.4 degrees relative to the sun. Historically it’s a day of celebration, ceremony and fascinating pagan rites, but in Nina terms it means beautifully long sunny days and barefoot walks in the grass.

It’s the turn of a season and the beginning of a  fabulous new day.

Beautiful blue in the turf

We woke up in style to the most glorious of mornings, slightly on the chilly side but beautifully refreshing, and astonished to find the very first drops of rain this year had fallen in our forested “back yard”.

After I had peeled off the cat (who had hermetically sealed herself to me with the low temps overnight), and put the hair back on hubby’s chest with  an espresso so solid even a Turk would approve, I took pooch by the reins and bounded with youthful joy, or my best impression thereof, into the moist and fragrant forest.

A show of white for the morning

Ahhh to be a fawn of the forest, fairy of the trees and dryad of the greens. Doggie and I skipped with all abandon up the creek and immersed ourselves in the new scents of dew.

And then I noticed the blooms.

Not that I hadn’t seen them before, but on this day they seemed to shine particularly bright. As if on cue blooms of spring much delayed by drought and a long winter blanketed the forest for the first day of summer.

A dust of dandelion

We had a fine time pooch and I, out there by ourselves. I snapped up flower shots on my stomach while doggie bounded around with ever-hopeful thoughts of rabbits and squirrels. No locals were harmed and we returned with dignity intact to the campground. 

It may our last day in the forest, and the end of a very enchanted ride, but it’s the beginning of a whole new season and I, for one, am really looking forward to it.

NFS Campground Review – Columbine Canyon, Questa, NM

Enjoying a glass by the stream next to our RV site at Columbine Canyon

A lovely forest campground next to a running stream near Questa on the Enchanted Circle in NE New Mexico.

Link to campground here: Columbine Canyon, Carson Forest, NM
Link to map location here: Columbine Canyon, Carson Forest, NM

1. Site Quality = 4/5
   Very nice site quality here, especially for a National Forest. All sites are paved with a good selection of larger and relatively flat ones. The entrance to the campground has a small circle of 8 large, perfectly flat open sites easily accessible to big rigs, but with limited shade/privacy. The remainder of the campground runs away from the main road up alongside a creek and has more private and dispersed forested sites of varying size/flatness. On left a selection of back-ins (#10-17 or so), with pull-throughs on right (#21 onwards), several of which can accommodate larger rigs. All sites have good separation, lovely “sitting areas” with picnic table and fire-pit, while some even have direct stream-access (e.g. #26/27). No hookups.
2.  Facilities = 2/5
   Very basic facilities here. There are several sets of pit toilets, kept nicely clean and several water spigots. Access to the stream and many (many) miles of hiking directly from camp. No showers or dump station.
3. Location = 5/5
   Another lovely location. You are deep in the woods here, shielded from the wind and right next to miles of wonderful hiking. Short drive to popular Red River as well as to visit other sights (e.g. Wild Rivers BLM).
4. Pet Friendliness = 5/5
   Great pet playground. The stream provides wonderful refreshment, plus there are literally days worth of hiking in Carson National Forest on the trails directly from camp.

Overall Rating = 4
BONUS ALERT = Camp deep in the woods next to the calming song of a running stream!

Summary: There are 5 forest campgrounds on the Northern End of the Enchanted Circle between Red River and Questa, but Columbine Canyon is by far the most accessible, quietest and nicest in our opinion. Set beautifully in the forest right alongside a running stream, the campground has both fully open sites as well as more private forested sites. All are paved with good access, nice separation and a selection large and flat enough for bigger rigs. There are lovely “sitting areas” and even a few sites with direct stream access (we thought our site #26 by far the nicest of the lot). The surrounding area has plenty to do and see including Red River, Wild Rivers BLM and literally days worth of hiking (there is access to at least 40 miles or so directly from the campground). This is a typical primitive forest campground with no hookups and no dump station but it feels wonderfully peaceful and secluded. It also has full protection from those famous New Mexico winds, a rarity in the area. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay and would most certainly come again.

Extra Info:  Verizon extended network with a few bars, so you’ll get a slow 1X connection, but no more. Sites cost $15/night (no hookups). All 27 sites are first-come-first-serve. Several on-site water spigots, but NO dump station.

Extra, Extra Info: More Remote? If you’re looking for something more remote El Aguaje Campground at Wild Rivers BLM has plenty of room for big rigs and allows camping right on the upper rim of the gorgeous Rio Grande Canyon for $7/night (no hookups). Very few people seem to go there.

Extra, Extra, Extra Info: Boondocking? There is aparently a lovely boondocking spot nearer to Taos off Forest Service road 9 at Cebola Mesa. Official RV size limit is 32′, but we weren’t able to make it over there to check if they take bigger. If anyone goes, let me know!

View from front of campground down right-side of loop. Pull-through #27 on left. You can just (barely) see our RV peeking out in pull-through #26 behind it.

Another view down campground loop from the upper side. Site #22 in front, with an RV in site #23 behind it.

Typical back-in site (#12 shown)

View down campground loop showing one of vault toilets and site #14 behind it

View from top of loop. You can just see site #17 hidden on left.

View of “circle” at front of campground with sites #1-8

View of one of large, spacious and flat back-in sites in lower circle. Site #3 shown.

View of our very spacious and private “sitting area” by site #26. Although you can’t see it in the pic, the stream runs directly on the left.