NFS Campground Review – Cayton, San Juan Forest, Rico, CO

View near camphost site at Cayton. "Shaggy" the marmot (on the rock) has been co-camp-host for many years here.

A wonderful forest service campground high in the SW Colorado mountains on Hwy 145 near Rico, CO.

Link to campground here: Cayton Campground, Rico, CO
Link to map location here: Cayton Campground, Rico,CO

1. Site Quality = 4.5/5
   For forest service it rarely gets any better than this. The sites at Cayton were entirely renovated a few years back and it definitely shows. They are large, spacious, flat compacted dirt with good separation (bar a very few exceptions), nice selection of open or shaded and great sitting areas. Each site also has a picnic table, fire-pit and an area to pitch a tent. There are 2 loops
   -> A lower “big RV” loop (sites 2-20) all of which have 50 Amp hookups and several of which sit right next to the stream (particularly sites 10, 13-16), but do have the disadvantage of being right next to the road as well
   -> An upper “small RV” loop (sites 21-27) which is further up the hill (away from the road) and has just as big sites as the lower loop, but simply no hookups. Our 40-footer could fit into either loop without issue, frankly.
   We thought all the sites nice, but the most private were probably #10, #11 in the lower loop and #21, #22 in the upper. My only (veeery minor) ding is that the lower loop sites do get some noise from the Hwy which runs right next door. However the lovely river sound washes out most of it.
2.  Facilities = 3.5/5
   Very decent facilities here. There are several new (modern) and spacious pit toilets and several on-site drinking water spigots. Also a dump station but this is *only* for black tank (you are legally allowed to dump gray at your site, believe it or not).
3. Location = 5/5
   I really think this is a fabulous location. Set high in the CO mountains there are stunning views from several points in camp as well as jeeping (Bolam Pass goes right from the entrance) and direct access to the river from the campground entrance area (this is apparently a prime fly-fishing spot). There is a lovely ”hidden” trail next to Site #21 and endless hiking at Lizard Head Wilderness only a few miles north on Hwy 145. Also you’re only ~6 miles from Rico (with restaurants, cafe) and ~15 miles from Telluride (shopping, restaurants etc.)
4. Pet Friendliness = 5/5
   Fabulous spot for doggie. Lots of space to hang out in camp as well as access to romp and play in the river (from your site or just outside the main campground). On-site walking trail near site #21 as well as miles of hiking in nearby mountains.

Overall Rating = 4.5
BONUS ALERT = Camp next to river and mountains at 9,400 feet!

Summary: Well, we simply LOVED this campground and area. Set beautifully in the high Colorado mountains at 9,400 feet, this is the gateway to endless hiking in the stunning Lizard Head Wilderness and the cool towns of Rico & Telluride. The campground is set right next to a stream with spacious sites, good separation and great “sitting areas”. Selection of choices from river-side (#10-16), to upper loop, from electric (50Amp) to nonhookup and from more open to fully shaded. LOTS of outdoor activities here including hiking, fly-fishing, jeeping and sightseeing. Very decent access throughout (a few tightish turns in the back of the lower loop, but nothing that worried us).  The only minor ding I could give the place is that the lower loop is right below Hwy 145 and you can hear some of the traffic in camp (mind you this is true of almost all the campgrounds on this stretch of road), but from our site most of the noise was washed out by the running river. In summer this spot is perfectly cool and absolutely delightful. This was most definitely our kinda camp and we would certainly come back.

 Extra Info:  NO Verizon signal here (zippo, zip, nada) -> free WiFi at the Dew South Cafe in Rico ~6 miles south. Sites cost $20/night for electric (50Amp), $15/night for non-hookup. 27 sites on 2 loops, with 18 electric. 16 sites are reservable, with other half first-come, first-serve. On site dump station (for black tank only -> you are legally allowed to dump grey at the sites).

 Extra, Extra Info – BOONDOCKING: There are actually a slew of boondocking sites in the open forest service and BLM land alongside Hwy 145. Two particular areas near milemarker 43 and 44 looked easily accessible, open and firm enough to take big rigs. If you have a smaller/lighter rig there are some more private and simply stunning spots up at the top by Lizard Head Pass (take the dirt road to the right towards East Fork trailhead at the pass and you’ll see several previously used spots)

Typical pull-through site (#1 shown)

Typical back-in site (lower loop #12 shown)

Front view of our site (#15)

View of lovely "sitting area". This was our site (#15). The river runs right behind (Paul is standing there) and Hwy 145 up above to the left.

View down lower campground loop (site #6 on left, #5 behind in the back)

Another view down lower campground loop. Our site #15 on right, with #16 & 17 behind.

Another view into lower loop. Sites #20, 19, 18 shown left to right

View down upper loop. Sites #25, 26, 27 shown front to back.

View of facilities

Hanging out by the river near camp

Hiking Off We’ve Gone, You See…

I must excuse our lack of be
‘Coz hiking off we’ve gone, you see
Flowers bloom and mountains call
To which our inhibitions fall
We tread the path where others fly
To reach beyond the skies a-high
Though we return in body true
Our hearts stay high within the blue
(Nina Fussing, July 2011)

We'll be in the mountains when you call..

It’s not often that poetry flows out of me like that, but I just can’t help getting inspired out here in the wilds. A late spring has the ground simply bursting with wildflowers, while the gorgeous Colorado mountains provide a stunning backdrop with no end of “oooh” and “aaahh” moments.

Aspen Trees frame the mountains on Lizard Head Trail

Yup, we’ve gone a-hiking. In fact it’s been the kind of week where “let’s go for a quick walk” has turned into 4 hour hikes up and over mountains passes. This is some of the most spectacular hiking I’ve done all year and it’s just darn near impossible to stop. There’s always something to see “right over the ridge there”.

Pooch of course has been everywhere with us, bouncing and playing in the mountain meadows while my camera has been clicking almost off the hook.

Driving on a dirt road to Dunton, CO

Interestingly enough almost all our hikes have been solo. There are literally hundreds of miles of hiking trails in Lizard Head Wilderness and the surrounding San Juan and Uncompahgre Forests, but only  a few seem to be frequented. Imagine our surprise therefore to make a connection at ~11,000 feet on the mountain.

It was a Wednesday morning and having seen no-one since we started out at 8AM, we stopped to chat with the couple coming up the trail. We exchanged stories, as things go, and eventually got around to the topic of RVing

Meeting Dick & Fran on the trail

“Oh yes, I have a son who RVs around in a Casita with his wife and dog” said Dick

“Really?!” I answered “that sounds exactly like this blog I follow…”

Polly soaks in the view at ~12,000 feet

And indeed it was. In a perfect example of unexpected fate we had just met the father of Imperfect Destiny half-way up a remote mountain in the Lizard Head Wilderness. They were even staying at our campground. We ended up having drinks and dinner over the next 2 days, getting to know yet another great couple on the road.

So yes, we’ve been out hiking..and driving…and exploring…and soaking our senses with all the colorful richness of the mountains. And it turns out we’ve met some people too. Don’t you just love those moments?

Coming next: 7 Links and another great campground review…

Columbines color the ground at Kilpacker Trail

Paul poses in the meadow in front of Lizard Head Mountain

View from the top of the world...

Early morning sun

Color in the meadow

Paul and Polly pose in the wildflowers

On the trail

Just another beautiful day...

Where No Signal Has Gone Before – Lizard Head Wilderness, CO

Hiking at 10,000 feet in the Lizard Head Wilderness

I’m blogging from the comfort of a cozy mountain café. Thanks to the wonder of free WiFi we are as yet connected, despite having gone where no signal has gone before. Yes, we’ve taken “the beast” into deep forest and are making attempts at contact with the local life-forms at ~9,000 feet and beyond. In technical terms that means: 

No internet
No phone
No satellite signal
No local TV stations
Not…even…a…single…radio…station

{{gasp}}

White dew and morning chill

I hear your astonishment and feel it too, but fear not. This does not mean we are without adventure. In fact we’ve had what you might call an “incident”, or one of those “you’ll find it funny later” stories. Once we’ve recovered and our mutual horror has subsided we’ll relate the entire debacle on the blog. In the meantime I’ll leave you with blissful pictures of high mountain scenes artfully arranged to give you the lulling impression that all is soft and fluffy in the world. And so it is…for now, anyway….

Out where signals do not go...

Early morning splendor in the mountains

NFS Campground Review – West Fork, San Juan Forest, Pagosa Springs, CO

Playing on a spur of the San Juan River in West Fork Campground

A simply lovely forest campground in the Forest valley just north of Pagosa Springs in South Central Colorado.

Link to campground here: West Fork Campground, San Juan Forest
Link to map location here: West Fork Campground, San Juan Forest

1. Site Quality = 4/5
   Nice sites for a forest campground. All are primitive (no hookups) spacious, decently flat compact dirt with picnic table and fire-pit surrounded by deep pine forest. Great site separation and privacy with nice “sitting area” and good access. Most sites have good to medium shade. Several sites have river access only 20 feet or so away (sites #16,#18) and many are large enough for bigger rigs (esp. #2, 17, 21, 26)
2.  Facilities = 2/5
   Typical primitive forest facilities. There are several pit toilets, all kept very nicely clean. Water spigots on-site but no dump station.
3. Location = 5/5
   Just a lovely location. You are deep in a forest valley with lots of seclusion, yet only steps away from the San Juan River and stunning mountain views. Lots of nearby hiking plus all the shopping and eating you’d like ~14 miles away in Pagosa Springs.
4. Pet Friendliness = 5/5
   Another great doggie spot. You’re right next to the San Juan River which has lots of opportunities for hiking and splashing around (there’s a “hidden” trail directly behind the pit toilet next to site #18 which continues down to a cute water area (to the right) or back, across the road and up the hill on the other side (to the left)).

Overall Rating = 4
BONUS ALERT = Camp deep in the forest next to river and mountain views!

Summary: This was simply a lovely find. If you’re looking for a primitive, secluded and quiet forest campground with access to river and just steps away from nature, hiking and stunning mountain views then this is your spot. There are several other forest service campgrounds in this area (e.g. East Fork, Lower Piedra, Ute etc.), but West Fork seems to have the best access and largest sites. Located beautifully in the rugged valley just ~14 miles north of Pagosa Springs, the campground has nice, spacious sites (several large enough for bigger rigs) with great separation and picnic table/fire-pit. A few sites have river access very close by (esp. #16, 18). The only ding I could think of is it does take a bit to get here. It’s ~1.5 miles on a firm (and decently wide), but very dusty road from Hwy 160. Within the campground the road has good access with a few turns, but nothing that concerned us. Overall an outstanding spot to hang around in nature and explore Pagosa Springs, Wolf Creek Pass and the surrounding attractions. We would most certainly come again.

 Extra Info:  Very spotty cellphone reception here, but we were able to get a good internet connection with our external amp/antenna on Verizon. Sites cost $16/night (no hookups). 28 sites of which 15 are reservable. NO dump station.

One of the larger pull-throughs (site #21 shown)

One of the non-reservation back-in sites (#2 shown)

View of typical "sitting area" with picnic table and fire-pit

View down campground loop (we're in site #18 with site #16 behind)

Another view down campground loop (RV shown in site #24)

Another view down campground loop (red car is in site #12 with #14 behind it)

View of one of pit toilets

View of our very spacious "siting area" in site #18. Shade in AM with sun in afternoon and the river accessible just steps away.

First Steps in Colorado – San Juan Forest, CO

First steps in the lush green of Colorado!

Well folks we’ve made it to Colorado! We took our first steps late yesterday afternoon dropping our jacks in a beautiful forest valley just north of Pagosa Springs, releasing our feet onto the glorious green floor and refreshing our senses with the fabulous chill of the San Juan River running only 20 feet away.

This is truly a special place. The Colorado Rockies blow me away every time I see them, and as we walked the river I was stunned by the towering beauty of the mountains around me. It’s amazing that a mere 80 miles of driving can take you from a semi-arid lake area to the lush green of a deep mountain forest. Yet here we are only a few hours apart in an environment so different we might as well be a world away.

Morning mist in the valley

Last year we spent six weeks right in the heart of the Rockies. This year we’ll be spending a month or so exploring the southern and southwestern reaches of the state. I have no doubt we’ll be just as enamoured. Colorado has a special vibe that speaks to the primal nature in all of us. It’s got the soul of a sweetheart with an outer fringe of the rough and wild. Just the way I like my mountains…and my men  

The hills are calling, the streams are singing and we’re more than ready to answer their call. Bring it on, Colorado!

Afternoon by the mountains

The view 20 feet from our campsite at West Fork